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Food

  • Baking fails
    Jennifer Bloom has been baking for a while – most lately in a home-based baking business called Cupcakes and Muffins and More, Oh My! in Fort Wayne.
  • Baking fails
    Jennifer Bloom has been baking for a while – most lately in a home-based baking business called Cupcakes and Muffins and More, Oh My! in Fort Wayne.
  • Recipes
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Trisha Giles, left, and daughter Lisa Mills get peaches ready to can. Consider using some peaches for soup, crisps or even ketchup.

Passion for peaches

Summer’s weather has been perfect, fruit grower says

Sacramento Bee photos
Pick a peach that is firm with only a little give, has no blemishes and has a fragrant aroma.

This is the kind of peach season that makes David Masumoto’s mouth water.

“My dad used to say, once in a decade you’d get a year like this – you don’t want to miss it,” said Masumoto, a longtime organic grower in central California. “It’s a good year for flavor, hot but not too hot. It’s perfect for peaches.”

Masumoto, author of five books including the award-winning “Epitaph for a Peach: Four Seasons on My Family Farm” (HarperOne), just finished work on his first Masumoto Farms cookbook. It’s due next June from Ten Speed Press.

Mixing philosophy with farming, Masumoto’s lyrical writing and organic heirloom peaches have made him a national star. He takes his passion for peaches personally and advises other peach lovers to do the same.

“Get to know the different types of peaches and the farmers who grow them,” he said. “When you’re shopping for ripe peaches, you can’t go just by the red color. There’s a trick to knowing when they’re ready. ...

“A ripe peach really does glow,” Masumoto added. “It takes a while to learn the art of selecting the right ones. That’s why you want to make friends with the farmers. They’ll help you.”

Peaches need a chill in winter and heat in summer.

“Peaches are native to the high desert of China,” Masumoto said. “That’s their natural climate. They like heat. They love a hot, dry summer.”

Picking peaches: Look for peaches that are firm to the touch but have a little give. They should be unblemished, free of nicks or bruises, with a warm, fragrant aroma. Mature peaches have a well-defined cleft and a soft glow.

Avoid peaches with any sign of green (they won’t ripen fully). Peaches will soften off the tree, but their sugar content will remain the same.

Nutrition: One large peach or one cup of fresh sliced peaches contains about 60 calories, almost all from carbohydrates. Peaches are a good source of vitamins A, C and niacin. They also contain several antioxidants, and potassium, iron and copper.

Health benefits: High in fiber and low in calories, peaches have no sodium or cholesterol. That makes them a naturally healthy food, fresh, frozen or canned. Recent studies also show that compounds found in peaches may help fight off obesity-related diabetes and cardiovascular disease.

Other studies have linked peaches to fighting cancer cells, improving vision, reducing hypertension and easing side effects of irritable bowel syndrome.

Swizzle-Stick Soup

3 pounds fresh peaches or apricots, pitted, peeled and halved

3 cups peach or apricot nectar

1 cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Pinch of saffron threads

1/2 cup honey

1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup half-and-half

1/2 cup plain yogurt

Mint sprigs for garnish

In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, combine the peaches, nectar, wine, ginger and saffron. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 30 minutes.

Remove from the heat and add the honey, brown sugar, salt and half-and-half. Using an immersion blender, purée the soup until smooth. (Or cool and purée in a regular blender.)

Ladle into soup bowls. Place a dollop of yogurt in the center of each bowl. With a swizzle stick, swirl the yogurt, and garnish with fresh mint. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Serves 8 to 10.

Coconut-Peach Crisp

1 cup rolled (or old-fashioned) oats

1 cup ground blanched almonds

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour (divided)

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1 egg

1/8 teaspoon pure almond extract

2/3 cup lightly packed sweetened shredded coconut

2 1/2 pounds peaches, peeled, pitted and thinly sliced (about 6 large peaches)

1/3 cup sugar

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Whipped cream

Position rack in the lowest third of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan; set aside.

Place oats on a baking sheet and toast 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a mixing bowl and cool completely.

Increase the oven temperature to 375 degrees.

Add the almonds, 1 tablespoon of the flour, the baking powder and salt to the oats. Set aside.

In a separate mixing bowl, beat the butter and brown sugar with an electric mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg and beat well. Stir in the extract, oat mixture and coconut. Set aside.

Place peaches in the prepared dish. Add remaining flour, sugar and juice, tossing gently to coat the peaches. Crumble the oat topping over the peaches. Bake until crisp and golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Cool at least 10 minutes before serving. Top with a dollop of whipped cream. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Peach-Chipotle Ketchup

Try this peachy ketchup recipe from Kristy DeVaney of Sacramento Connect, who blogs at www.cavegrrl.com.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup apple cider vinegar

5 to 6 peaches

1 tablespoon molasses

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon crushed garlic

2 chipotle peppers, seeded

4 yellow tomatoes

1 Roma tomato

Heat olive oil in a skillet and slice the onion. Sauté the onion and then add the salt when the onion becomes translucent.

When the onion begins to soften, add apple cider vinegar and cook onion down until it is brown and fully caramelized.

Peel and slice the peaches and place fruit in a food processor. Pulse until peaches form a thick liquid. Add the molasses and honey and set aside.

When the onion is fully cooked, put it into the food processor with the crushed garlic, and pulse to make a paste. Seed and remove the membranes from the chipotle peppers, and place them in the food processor with the onion paste. Pulse until well blended. Set this mixture aside.

Core and cut tomatoes into medium-size chunks and place in a saucepot with the peach purée. Cook them down with the peach purée until the tomatoes break down and the mixture starts to thicken. This will take 20 to 30 minutes.

Then add the onion mixture to the saucepot, along with the tomato paste. Incorporate completely and continue to cook on low to medium heat until desired thickness is reached (about 10 to 20 more minutes).

Keep in refrigerator for up to a week, or you can freeze for later use. Makes about 3 cups.

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