If I have one complaint about fresh corn, it’s that the season is never long enough. Right around Labor Day is when it’s at its peak and like tomatoes, corn is best when grown locally.

I suggest that you buy corn early in the day – preferably from farmers who picked it that morning – and cook it that day because corn loses freshness quickly.

Sweet corn is divided into yellow, white and bicolor corn. The standard way for most people to check on the freshness of corn – and to see whether any kernels are missing from the cob – is to rip open the husk and examine it. And this is fine as long as you don’t do it to every cob in the bin and leave bubkis for the next hungry shopper.

The kernels should be firm and plump. You can also check the cobs by feeling the top of the closed husk. The husk, incidentally, should be evenly green with no darkness on the bottom. After you get corn home, refrigerate it as is, don’t shuck it. You can put it in a plastic bag but don’t be tempted to hold on to it for more than a day because the longer corn sits, the more its sugar turns to starch.

The simplest method to cook corn is to put ears in a kettle of water (with no salt) at a rolling boil for a minute or two at the most and no more. Overcooking causes lost flavor. Steaming is OK, but it takes longer, five minutes or more depending on how many ears you have. Microwaving is fine if you only have a few ears. A full-power oven will cook two ears in about 5 minutes. Grilling is also a fabulous way to cook corn. You can soak the husks in water before grilling to prevent burning. This method gives more of a steamed-grilled flavor than a pure grilled flavor. Husked corn will take about 3 minutes; unhusked about 6 to 8 minutes. The flame should be of about medium high. You can brush the corn with some melted butter for either method.

Corn with Herbs and Peppers

2 tablespoons butter

1 small red bell pepper, chopped, about 1/2 cup

1 or 2 jalapeno peppers, depending on taste, finely chopped

1 small onion, chopped, about 1/2 cup

1 rib celery, chopped

3 cups corn kernels, about 4 ears

1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped

1 teaspoon fresh basil

2 tablespoons chopped chives

Salt and pepper to taste

Put butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the peppers, onion and celery. Cook about 5 minutes until onions soften. Add corn and remaining ingredients and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes. Check for seasoning. Serves 4.

Corn Chowder with Crab

You don’t have to go to Maine to enjoy this dish that makes for a hearty first course or a light lunch with crusty bread and green salad.

1 pound cooked crab meat or mock crab

1/2 pound red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup chopped shallots

1 rib celery, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thinly

2 tablespoons flour

1 quart chicken broth

3 cups corn kernels (3 to 4 ears)

1 cup warm milk

Salt and fresh pepper to taste

Healthy pinch cayenne

3 tablespoons chopped chives

Cut crab into 1/2 -inch pieces. Cook potatoes; cool and cut into 1/2 -inch cubes. Set aside. Melt butter in a small kettle or large saucepan over medium heat. Sauté shallots and celery until shallots soften, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add flour and stir a few minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil, stirring. Simmer 10 minutes. Add corn, potatoes, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne. Cook 5 minutes. Add crab and chives. Heat a few minutes. Check for seasoning. Serves 6.

Corn Bread with a Kick

Add another jalapeno pepper if you like your cornbread really spicy.

1 cup yellow cornmeal

3/4 cup flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup buttermilk

2 eggs, well beaten

1 tablespoon oil

1/3 cup sour cream

1 cup fresh corn kernels

1 large jalapeno pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Spray an 8-inch square baking pan with spray. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, baking powder and sugar. Mix to combine. In another bowl combine the buttermilk, eggs, oil and sour cream. Whisk to combine. Add the wet mixture to the dry mixture. And stir only once or twice. Add the corn, pepper and cilantro; mix until just barely combined. Pour the batter into the baking pan and bake about 25 minutes or until a toothpick tester comes out clean and edges just begin to come away from the side of the pan. Serves 6 to 8.